In search of the great grey-green greasy Limpopo River

A side trip to see the Thohoyandou Sacred Forests and waterfall led us on a meandering road trip. The temperature was over 40^C and the fridge battery needed to be charged making the air conditioned car the perfect place to be. We located the (very badly signposted) road into pine plantations and along the banks of the Holy Forest Lake to the waterfall, especially spectacular for the large ferns growing around the river. 

We enjoyed exploring under the cool trees and moved on to the site of the forest. A beckoning path took us, on foot, past deep sentient glades that exposed cairns of stones at intervals along its course. We added a stone or two of our own, not forgetting a quick spit to ‘provide water in honour of life’ and eventually came to the top of the mountain where we were welcomed by Cedrick, an employee of the forestry department, who has spent over 30 years keeping watch for fires in the surrounding pine forests.

Cedrick shared cool water with us all, including our pup, and led us up a rickety ladder, through a trapdoor into his lookout. He told us of the surrounding crops, tourist attractions, the history of fires in the area and of the dates carved into his desk. He shyly revealed his talent for carving beautiful ‘pap’ spoons and boasted of his expertise in driving the huge TLB that was used to sort the logs into piles of similar size during logging operations. 

We left refreshed in mind and body enjoying the walk back to the car through surprisingly green areas reminiscent of the rolling fields of Ireland. 

Our proximity to the South African border and the Limpopo River had sparked an interest in the infamous ‘Crooks Corner’ where South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe join and ‘people who had no great wish to look into the eyes of the law’ could hide in ages past. Our Fur-Baby prevented us from entering the Kruger and despite its proximity it was surprisingly difficult to get a view of the Mighty Limpopo.

We skirted the ‘no man’s land’ between South Africa and the Zimbabwe border, which was demarcated by dilapidated fences, and reluctantly turned around when it was clear that the road less travelled was traversed at our own risk. Enquiries at the Pafuri Gate to the Kruger led us westward towards Mesina and a turn off that offered another chance to go northward. We found the road and despite traveling for over 10 kilometers we could see on the GPS that we were constantly traveling parallel to the river with no view of it at all. 

Eventually we found an entrance to a ‘lodge’ that was on the same side of the road as the river and went in to see if we could drive down to a view point. A language barrier with staff made it difficult to understand if we were welcomed or not. As we were leaving we spied a man carrying a large chair on his shoulders and ran to ask him for assistance. He gave a small smile and with great politeness escorted us to the river bank where comfortable chairs offered a spectacular view of the Limpopo.

Three hours later with hugs and well wishes we left the private home of Peet and Susan who had coped admirably, and with much charm, with their intrepid trespassers.