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http://www.highlandnook.co.za/

Camping site: R150 per adult per night. Fully grassed. Electricity and water points available (bring extension leads). Hot water, clean ablutions. Pet Friendly (by prior arrangement) – no extra cost

Cell phone coverage iffy – a blessing. We were the only ones in camp. How lucky can we be?

Sitting in our tripper with a gentle rain falling outside we are still rooting for the fire that has battled the wind blown rain to survive for the last two hours. Thunder circles around us booming through the mountain valleys as we read our books and reminisce about the time spent in such an amazing place. The morning revealed that 64mm had fallen!

Our kind hostess, Alison, had offered us the rondavel for our stay due to the rainy forecast ahead. It contained a double bed, small kitchenette, double bunk beds and a couch in front of a log fire but we had opted to face the weather in our special Tripper and were not at all sorry.

Terraced grass campsites, newly mown had welcomed us to Highland Nook. Clean bathrooms, toilets and scullery. A spacious ‘Flintstone Shower’ with high pressure hot water a delight after our morning walks. Waking up to the morning, sitting quietly in camp listening to the bird chorus and watching the ever changing clouds in the valley an extra special privilege.

Many intriguing trail options to places such as the high beacons, numerous waterfalls, dams and Bushman Paintings are on offer and we enjoyed meandering around the farm looking for them. Although we did not find the paintings the magnificent sandstone outcrops and indigenous plants were a delight. Knowing that the trail you followed had probably been used by generations of Bushmen a thrill.

Days spent in awe, admiring the ever changing vista of the Drakensburg mountains. The freedom to explore the undulating hills which brought back vivid memories of walking in the ‘berg with my Father many years ago.

The weather changed from steamy hot to chilly and wet repeatedly during our stay. The similarity to the Scottish Highlands striking.

Silence broken only by the wind in the trees and birdsong from early morning to the late sunsets. Peace and tranquility guaranteed.

Refreshed and so very grateful we can highly recommend this paradise.

A very slow and meandering trip up Sani Pass (the pass of the Bushmen) started under a perfectly blue, crisp sky which showed the new summer grass up to perfection! As we climbed towards the South African border post the clouds massed and turned darker and darker but apart from a few spots of rain they kept their distance. The pass was originally the Bushmen’s traditional route up the Drakensburg from Natal to Lesotho.

The last time we were on this road was about 8 years ago. At the time they were doing major upgrades to the road and we had dodged graders, followed numerous detours in the mud and had been amazed by the feats of engineering required to work in such tight and unforgiving conditions.

Todays trip was along the result of their labours. Sweeping, wide tarred roads well protected from falling rocks by gunnited walls inset with plant holders. Along the way water seeped from drainage holes – water droplets trickling down to join the growing rush alongside the road till it reached the tumbling torrent of the Mkhomazana River rushing towards South Africa.

On arrival at the boarder post a Border Guard came to the car to confirm we only had one dog with us and that she was in good health. We handed over her proof of vaccination and had her card stamped along with our passports – we were cleared to drive into the startlingly beautiful Sani Pass.

T.V Bulpin describes it thus – “The route leads upwards through a jumble of giant sandstone boulders. The river rushes down the pass through a succession of pools,waterfalls and cascades. Vividly coloured cliffs of sandstone tower over a narrow gorge choked with a rich vegetation.”

2.5 hours of bumpy switchback turns on gravel roads revealed one majestic view after another. Water streamed from every valley falling in bridal veils alongside the road, disappearing underneath and emerging on the other side to continue their helter-skelter rush to the valley bottom.

Friendly passport controls in both South Africa and Lesotho eventually led us to the Highest Pub in Africa – 2874m above sea level. R320.00 bought us a drink each and a freshly baked, homemade beef pie with chips. Enjoying our thick tasty gravy washed down by icy cold Maluti beer we watched ominous clouds build in the distance, a lightning show and loud rumbles before the storm moved silently away; pleased that it had got our attention.

How amazingly quick the return trip was as we also seemed to tumble down the mountain much faster than the ascent had been. The uneven surface and tight turns demanded constant attention. We were in awe of the cyclists that had ridden both up and down the 32km pass in one day.

Returning to the peaceful haven of Highland Nook was a superb way to relax reliving the memories playing through our minds!

https://rockydrift.co.za/

Camping site: R250 per camper per night. Electricity, braai and water points at the sites. Clean, spacious ablutions. Pet Friendly – no extra cost

“Each campsite is well spaced, grassed and level with electricity (Blue camping socket required) & water outlet. The ablutions consist of separate ladies & gents toilets, wash basin & shower. The shared scullery area is clean with plenty of hot water. Recycling bins in a central area. You are kindly requested to sort all your trash. Private braai available on each site. NO fires are permitted on the grass”

Booking, directions and information supplied before arrival exceptional. It was a pleasure to visit Rocky Drift. Our entire experience was Perfect!

Warren greeted us on arrival and informed us that we were the only campers booked for the entire weekend – how lucky can you get?

The Tripper was, as always, a pleasure to set up. Chris and Sanette had given the cabling some attention it needed and the Tripper worked like a dream! Search Road-Tripper Trailers on Facebook…

The sound of the river bubbling over boulders, the full moon, clear skies with stars shining down, abundant bird life, peace tranquility and a stunning fire made our days and evenings magical!

Winding our way along the very well marked hiking trails filled the days. Although hot on the trail, it was cool under the trees – the gentle breeze a pleasure. We wore hiking boots the first day but realised that hiking sandles were suffient on the well maintained trails and we could indulge ourselves by paddling through the many river crossings of clear water; clean and welcoming us to drink to our hearts content. Warmer weather would make the many dams along the hiking trail irresistible. The 10km Adventure Hike to the Waterfall highly recommended

We ended our weekend with an ample and delicious breakfast from the restaurant. The entire experience left our souls filled and ready to face the next few weeks until our Itchy Feet call again.

https://bergenrivier.co.za/

Camping site: R250 per off-road camper per night plus R50 per adult per day. No electricity or water points at the River Camping sites. Basic cold water ablutions. Pet Friendly – no extra cost

On arrival we were met by Johan who welcomed us with a quick “getting to know your way around” chat. We were booked at Boplaas Campground but due to the excessive rains it had been closed to protect the roads. We made our way to the riverside campground and selected our spot beside the swiftly flowing Wilge River. The cicada beetles welcomed us shrilly.

Looming dark clouds encouraged us to set up camp quickly before the rain arrived. We had just put the awnings up when the wind blew the storm into camp. We settled down to watch the lightning show around us. Snug in our camp chairs, the flashes around us emphasising the darkness!

We had an early night snug in our cocoon and woke to blue skies with Piet-my-Vrous competing with the Diedericks cuckoo, Burchel’s Coucal Thick-billed Weavers and Paradise Flycatchers (among many others) in the bush around our camp and across the swiftly flowing river.

A pleasant day was spent birding, wondering around the extensive pathways of the hiking and 4×4 trails and just generally delighting in being back in the bush.

We thoroughly enjoyed a magnificent, star filled evening under the dark of the moon. It became evident that another storm was slowly building, but not before we could relish the superb company, fire, food and wine to the full. Another early night was made special as the elements blew and poured outside our snug, dry Tripper.

Waking up to a dark sky we decided to pack up and meander home early. The fields are plowed and showing a haze of green as the crops begin to grow. I cannot remember the last time I saw every dam we passed filled to the brim!

Yummy breakfast at Sergeant Peppers Restaurant in Balmoral in the sun. A Boer War memorial sobering with so many tiny white graves resulting from the deaths of 427 men, women and children in the Balmoral Concentration Camp in just two years.

http://nieu-bethesda.com/about/outsiders-bb/

Double Room with en suite bathroom R700.00 per couple per night and YES you get breakfast included. Pet Friendly – no extra cost

• Bathroom with shower & toilet
• Tea and coffee facilities
• Hand and bath towels
• Linen
• Hot water bottles
• Heaters

Katrien met us on arrival with a complementary information book, including a map. it was chilly in the late afternoon but the heater was on and our spacious, spotlessly clean room was cozy.

There were many food options available but we had brought dinner with us. We sat on the veranda outside our room and enjoyed taking in the ambiance along with our food. A slow stroll after dinner was highlighted by a huge flock of pied starlings wheeling through the glowing sky before coming down to roost. As the sun set the village came to life delighting us with its varied architecture, cleanliness and charm.

After a comfortable night in an amazing bed with a snuggy duvet we were welcomed by Katrien’s husband Ian. Together they served us a superb breakfast including homemade bread fresh from the oven and plunger brewed “Italian” Masterton coffee. After breakfast we set out to fill the day with the many offerings around us.

The fascinating Owl House, which glowed with light, entertained us with its many quirks. Justifiably famous.

The Stone Folk led us along a precarious path

The Fossil Centre where we learned about the greatest Mass Extinction to have hit the earth, thought to have been caused by a rise in green house gasses some 253 million years ago (Volcanic eruptions in what is now Serbia released carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.) A chilling lesson we could relate to in light of our current drastic weather pattern changes. It was amazing to see the fossils in the dry riverbed.

A walk across the suspension bridge inspecting the blooms on the quince bushes, listening to the frogs in the river and enjoying the antics of the ground squirrels.

Craft Beer tasting at the Brewery made extra special by the warm sun and gambolling lambs

A dinner of Karoo Lamb from the Heritage museum served by friendly ladies who scurried two and fro to serve their many guests completed our day.

A peaceful evening, star filled skies and breakfast delights

We left Nieu Bethesda the proud owners of an owl sold to us by Jackie, the daughter of Koos Malgas, one of Helen Martin’s assistants.

A startling number of blue cranes waved us goodbye

A slow morning walk along the Buffalo Bay Trail. From dune scrubland, through the indigenous forest to the sea. A delight for the soul. The dogs were able to run to their hearts content. It was such a pleasure to see anemones in the tidal pools and so many shells washed up on the beach that it took a good 20 minutes to do the short walk along the shore.

Thomas Bain and his brother-in-law Adam de Smit built the 7 passes road. It is 75km’s long and was completed in 1883. Thomas Bain started building from Knysna to George, and Adam de Smit from George to Knysna. Thomas was delayed in Homtini pass by the road’s complexity and Adam moved towards Knysna at a much quicker pace. It is said that frequent disagreements about the route led to irreconcilable differences and the men never spoke again after the spectacular road was completed.

Traveling from Knysna

1. Phantom Pass, built in 1862 and reconstructed in 1889 was the first pass to be completed, it was named after the grey and brown moths that can be found in the area around springtime. Unfortunately, many invasive tree species are now the norm rather than the exception. We were welcomed to the scenic village of Rheenendal (home to the Rheenendal Timber Mill) at the top of the pass by lavender and peacocks.

2. Homtini Pass (the most difficult to construct) was the last to be completed in 1882. It is “5km’s long, and presents an altitude variance of 153m. You will be kept busy as the driver, as there are 45 bends, corners and curves of which 3 corners are greater than 120 degrees and 1 is an extremely sharp hairpin.” https://www.mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za/find-a-pass/western-cape/item/25-homtini-pass,-garden-route.html . Getting out of the car and walking down to the pump station in the river to taste the clean water is an experience in itself.

3. Karatara Pass was completed in 1882 when gold was found in the nearby Millwood. It was populated by the relocated woodcutter families in 1941 The ‘government style’ housing, laid out in a neat grid pattern, was built in the 1940’s. All of the houses have a similar style although many have been adapted and changed, personalized by the owners over the years. The little town has a surprisingly large community centre and Dutch Reformed church.

4. Hoogekraal Pass, which was also completed in 1882, lies approximately mid-way along the 7 passes route. Misty rain made for a particularly spectral experience.

Between the Hoogekraal and Touw river pass there is an 800 year old “Big Tree” and a 30 minute circular walk through the forests.

5. Touw River Bridge was completed in 1871 and is spectacular in its differences. The original wooden bridge was washed away and replaced by the steel bridge in the 1900’s. The Touw river is the largest river traversed by the 7 passes.

6. Silver River Bridge was completed in 1869. Sadly one butressed corner of this historic bridge has been knocked off and now lies in the river below. It is not clear when the damage was done, but it was first photographed in August 2022.

7. Kaaimans River Bridge was completed in 1869. “The concrete bridge at Kaaimans river was completed in 1904 and bears the initials and coat of arms of King Edward, ER. It replaced the old imported pine timber bridges which never lasted long.” https://showme.co.za/george/tourism/the-seven-passes-route-2  It collapsed again as a result of floods and heavy rains in 2006 and was rebuilt.

Our spectacular day was completed by driving from George, via Wilderness, back to Knysna. Despite the weather, it was a magical day!

https://noetzie.co.za/history-of-noetzie/

With a picnic backpack and chilly feet we negotiated the steep stairs to Noetzie Beach. Chicko needed to be kept on her leash but it was no hardship as we clambered over the rocks admiring the careful reconstruction that has taken place.

My last visit was just after the hugely destructive fires 5 years ago. It is amazing to note the care that is being taken with both restoration and new buildings.

The stairs open out onto the most majestic beach. The cold dark waters of the lagoon clearly demarcate the nature reserve where the oyster catchers write poems in the sand

A sandy picnic followed by exploration around the beach was cut short as doggies are not welcome in the Reserve area.

Walking back out of the valley via the steep access road gave us lots of opportunities to admire the flowers along the way

We will be back!

27km’s long. Built by Thomas Bain and 1000 convicts – 150 who lost their lives during the gruelling construction, £31 500.00 produced an all weather link between Oudtshoorn and Prince Albert in one year (1884). The following year parts were washed away making the pass impassable. It was reopened to light traffic in 1886 and ‘wagon and cart traffic’ were allowed on Fridays!

About 330 million years ago, as the continents collided to form the super continent of Pangea, a subduction zone formed in the south, causing the Cape Super Group to undergo uplift and compression, which deformed and folded the previously horizontal layers, forming a mountain range up to 7 km high.

https://www.geoexpro.com/articles/2016/07/spectacular-swartberg

Breathtaking hairpin turns delight the eye and each stone, over 130 years in place, humbling.

Remnants of the old jail remind us of the eighteen convict gangs, forty constables armed with rifles and dogs and twenty prison warders that were bought in to construct the pass.

https://www.karoo-southafrica.com/koup/prince-albert/history-of-prince-albert/

A very windy picnic surrounded by millions of scrub species and bouncing Tupperware lids filled our tummies and senses.

Safe on the other side we journied through Oudtshoorn to Knysna

http://princealbertolives.co.za/stay/

Kalamata Cottage: R375.00 Per Person Sharing.

Pet friendly: no extra cost.

Wendy welcomed us back to Olienhoff with a smile – we first stayed at Mission Cottage on a cold and blustery night, our next stay was camping in our very new Tripper and this visit was in the cosy Kalamata cottage. Our sheltered braai area more than suitable for a chilly night.

The trip from Gariep to a Prince Albert was stunning to say the least…

Golden fields with browsing springbok line the long straight roads

The majestic Swartberge beckoning us onward

The promise of spring gaily danced beside us as we swept towards Prince Albert

The peace and beauty of the village entranced us as we wondered from street to street.

The highlight of our stay was a delightful evening in the company of Ailsa who brought the history of Prince Albert to life

https://www.princealbertaccomm.co.za/things-to-do/ghost-walk

https://storyweaver.co.za/walks/stories/

Walking the streets as the sun set. Spotted eagle owls gliding through the night. Scrumptious Lamb curry and venison pie at the Rude Chef. A bat eared fox slipping off the road in the car’s headlights. Our pup collapsed into her bed.

https://www.robertjacobgordon.nl/drawings/rp-t-1914-17-65

Dusbin Art to entertain and educate.

Thank you Ailsa