A very slow and meandering trip up Sani Pass (the pass of the Bushmen) started under a perfectly blue, crisp sky which showed the new summer grass up to perfection! As we climbed towards the South African border post the clouds massed and turned darker and darker but apart from a few spots of rain they kept their distance. The pass was originally the Bushmen’s traditional route up the Drakensburg from Natal to Lesotho.
The last time we were on this road was about 8 years ago. At the time they were doing major upgrades to the road and we had dodged graders, followed numerous detours in the mud and had been amazed by the feats of engineering required to work in such tight and unforgiving conditions.
Todays trip was along the result of their labours. Sweeping, wide tarred roads well protected from falling rocks by gunnited walls inset with plant holders. Along the way water seeped from drainage holes – water droplets trickling down to join the growing rush alongside the road till it reached the tumbling torrent of the Mkhomazana River rushing towards South Africa.
On arrival at the boarder post a Border Guard came to the car to confirm we only had one dog with us and that she was in good health. We handed over her proof of vaccination and had her card stamped along with our passports – we were cleared to drive into the startlingly beautiful Sani Pass.
T.V Bulpin describes it thus – “The route leads upwards through a jumble of giant sandstone boulders. The river rushes down the pass through a succession of pools,waterfalls and cascades. Vividly coloured cliffs of sandstone tower over a narrow gorge choked with a rich vegetation.”
2.5 hours of bumpy switchback turns on gravel roads revealed one majestic view after another. Water streamed from every valley falling in bridal veils alongside the road, disappearing underneath and emerging on the other side to continue their helter-skelter rush to the valley bottom.
Friendly passport controls in both South Africa and Lesotho eventually led us to the Highest Pub in Africa – 2874m above sea level. R320.00 bought us a drink each and a freshly baked, homemade beef pie with chips. Enjoying our thick tasty gravy washed down by icy cold Maluti beer we watched ominous clouds build in the distance, a lightning show and loud rumbles before the storm moved silently away; pleased that it had got our attention.
How amazingly quick the return trip was as we also seemed to tumble down the mountain much faster than the ascent had been. The uneven surface and tight turns demanded constant attention. We were in awe of the cyclists that had ridden both up and down the 32km pass in one day.
Returning to the peaceful haven of Highland Nook was a superb way to relax reliving the memories playing through our minds!
Itchy Feet! 