Author: jennystevens28

A side trip to see the Thohoyandou Sacred Forests and waterfall led us on a meandering road trip. The temperature was over 40^C and the fridge battery needed to be charged making the air conditioned car the perfect place to be. We located the (very badly signposted) road into pine plantations and along the banks of the Holy Forest Lake to the waterfall, especially spectacular for the large ferns growing around the river. 

We enjoyed exploring under the cool trees and moved on to the site of the forest. A beckoning path took us, on foot, past deep sentient glades that exposed cairns of stones at intervals along its course. We added a stone or two of our own, not forgetting a quick spit to ‘provide water in honour of life’ and eventually came to the top of the mountain where we were welcomed by Cedrick, an employee of the forestry department, who has spent over 30 years keeping watch for fires in the surrounding pine forests.

Cedrick shared cool water with us all, including our pup, and led us up a rickety ladder, through a trapdoor into his lookout. He told us of the surrounding crops, tourist attractions, the history of fires in the area and of the dates carved into his desk. He shyly revealed his talent for carving beautiful ‘pap’ spoons and boasted of his expertise in driving the huge TLB that was used to sort the logs into piles of similar size during logging operations. 

We left refreshed in mind and body enjoying the walk back to the car through surprisingly green areas reminiscent of the rolling fields of Ireland. 

Our proximity to the South African border and the Limpopo River had sparked an interest in the infamous ‘Crooks Corner’ where South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe join and ‘people who had no great wish to look into the eyes of the law’ could hide in ages past. Our Fur-Baby prevented us from entering the Kruger and despite its proximity it was surprisingly difficult to get a view of the Mighty Limpopo.

We skirted the ‘no man’s land’ between South Africa and the Zimbabwe border, which was demarcated by dilapidated fences, and reluctantly turned around when it was clear that the road less travelled was traversed at our own risk. Enquiries at the Pafuri Gate to the Kruger led us westward towards Mesina and a turn off that offered another chance to go northward. We found the road and despite traveling for over 10 kilometers we could see on the GPS that we were constantly traveling parallel to the river with no view of it at all. 

Eventually we found an entrance to a ‘lodge’ that was on the same side of the road as the river and went in to see if we could drive down to a view point. A language barrier with staff made it difficult to understand if we were welcomed or not. As we were leaving we spied a man carrying a large chair on his shoulders and ran to ask him for assistance. He gave a small smile and with great politeness escorted us to the river bank where comfortable chairs offered a spectacular view of the Limpopo.

Three hours later with hugs and well wishes we left the private home of Peet and Susan who had coped admirably, and with much charm, with their intrepid trespassers. 

Pafuri River Camp: Pafuri (Northernmost gate into the Kruger Park)

http://www.pafuri.co.za

Cost: R150 per person per night

Pet friendly (no extra cost)

Private toilet and shower

No electricity

Demarcated camp sites. Tented camps available

We were one of a handful of guests – how lucky can we get!

Pafuri River Camp offered us the perfect holiday. The camp is basic; sandy open patches under large trees (ours is an amazing knob thorn), a little house containing the loo and a basin and shade netting and canvas stretched over poles to cover a shower. There is a gas heater but we were so pleased for the cool water that we never needed it.

The lapa has a bar and meals are offered there by arrangement. The swimming pool is covered by shade netting and remains cool despite the heat. The Mutale river creeping its way through the massive river bed is only ankle deep. The camp neighbors on a local community and the constant sound of bells on the necks of cattle and goats as they freely graze along the river banks was a jarring note in the otherwise peaceful experience.

The birdlife is just amazing! We were treated to a daily morning chorus that roused us to lie in bed and doze while it unfolded around us. On one of our drives we spotted a korri bustard in full display. He remained peering at us side-on as we feasted on the details of his plumage for over 10 minutes.

Explorations around camp, on foot and in the car, revealed small villages set randomly along the main road, huddling under enormous baobab trees that brought our adventures in Namibia to mind. Scorched earth offering no grass cover dotted with Mopane trees come alive as greenish white butterflies by the hundreds flitter too and fro through the heat.

The escarpment and valleys are strewn with river boulders testifying to just how large the river was in years past. A high promontory promised us a view of the sunset but welcome clouds turned the evening into a study of pink as we discovered, during a rambling conversation, that it was old years eve and we had completely lost a day.

The heat was prodigious, as expected, but as a result the camp was nearly empty and the tripper lived up to expectation making the nights bearable and our sleep deep and restful. Our little dog battled with the heat in general and the hot roads burned her feet resulting in very little exercise. She did not enjoy the swimming pool and we resorted to keeping her covered in a wet shirt to try to lower her temperature.

The proximity to the Kruger and good value for money will keep this ‘jewel in the crown of the Kruger’ on our list for a re-visit but a careful pick of isolated campsites will be necessary in the busy season to ensure we are not overwhelmed with other campers.

 

 

 

Contact us for location details

Cost- 4 sleeper cottage: R1 600 per weekend plus R800.00 per additional night

Pet Friendly (no extra cost)

Cost – ‘Wild Camping’ sites: R60.00 pppn (No electricity, water, kitchen or ablution facilities supplied)

We are the only people at the cottages or camp sites – how lucky can we get!

The farm on which we spent the weekend is an active cattle and sheep farm with immaculate fences and none of the rubbish lying around that is so often associated with farmers. Winding past incredible rock outcrops with dassie sentries whistling warning of our progress, we arrived at a little stone cottage – a simple but welcoming 4-sleeper containing old furnishings that retain the pleasant patina of wood polished with love over many years. It’s impossible to resist running your hand over them as you pass.

We were offered accommodation in the cottage but decided to stay in the Tripper (familiar, comfortable and ours!) and made camp beside the pool. There is no electricity but the gas geyser supplies ample hot water. (It is a good idea to bring your drinking water with you). A small lawn, blue plunge pool and spring-green stinkwood trees, alive with an ever changing series of birds, entertained us for the day and a chorus of frogs welcomed us back to our beloved bushveld as evening closed around us. How privileged we are to find these jewels scattered across South Africa.

We took a walk down to the river bank to admire the stretch of clean water. It is hard to believe that yesterday this beautiful river was a quiet, dry, still-life artscape waiting for rain to celebrate its return to noise and bustle. In the wild campsite there is a fire pit protected from the wind by a beautiful stone wall and chairs long the river bank where you can watch the goings on on the water. Spurwinged and Egyptian geese, river monitors, fish eagles and the ever entertaining monkeys celebrated the waters return during the day while the red toads sang their welcome during a soft summer’s night. An amazing blaze of stars ended a perfect day.

An amazing break away

http://www.qwantani.co.za

We have become immune to the litter that surrounds us, every day, every where. How amazing to be in a place with clean water and no, absolutely NO, litter.

The Sterkfontein dam, 19 800 000m3 of water, is located on a small stream that has its origins in the Drakensburg. The majority of the water in the dam is pumped up from the Tugela River when necessary and circulates through the huge hydroelectric scheme which aerates the water and keeps it crystal clean.

Limited development, no informal housing and no river flowing into the dam has created a unique ecosystem unheard of in our country that is drowning under paper bags, cigarette buts and take-away containers.

Staying in a normal house that does not rock with the wind was pleasant but getting back to our camp will be a pleasure.

Cost: R100 per camp site per night. R50.00 per person per night. Chalet R550 per night.

Pet Friendly by arrangement (no extra cost)

Ablutions – showers and baths, clean and well maintained

Large, grassed, braai facilities and water near each site. Very relaxed to fit the prevailing weather conditions.

http://www.heinsresort.caravanparks.co.za/

Despite the freezing weather we were welcomed with warm hospitality by Hein. He escorted us to his nearby game farm and encouraged the children to explore. “Close gates that are closed behind you and leave gates that are open open. But explore as much as you like”

The Tripper lived up to expectations allowing us to feed the whole family and sleep in comfort despite the winter winds outside. We managed to enjoy morning coffee with three adults, two children and the dog on the bed – in comfort!

We were absorbed into the rhythm of farm life. Interrogating the life of chickens and pigs, interacting with horses and watching the milking process of 98 cows twice a day!

The family friendliness of the owners was eclipsed by the rugby game blasted onto a big screen as the Springboks beat the Wallabies followed by huge plates of boere kos.

De Rust Caravan Park: Dinokeng Big-5 Game Reserve, Hammanskraal

Cost: R155 per person per night (riverside, weekend rates)

Reserve conservation fees and self drive permit purchase costs apply

Pet Friendly (no extra cost)

Ablutions – clean, wheelchair friendly, super hot water showers.

Large, grassed, demarcated camp sites each have water and electricity.

https://www.derustcampsite.com

Waking to the sound of a natal spurfowl at sunrise we opened our doors and welcomed the chilly breeze, along with the sound of the river, into our snug cocoon. A warm cup of coffee in bed before an early morning game drive.

We had left Johannesburg just as the sun set the night before and travelled north along the N1. Handling the Tripper in rush hour traffic, through a crowded and chaotic toll plaza, easy and comfortable. We managed to manipulate the Tripper into our chosen camp site in the dark and within 20 minutes the fire was on, drinks were poured and we could enjoy being in the bush! The evening was spiced with excited thoughts of lion and elephant that walk through the camp and after dinner we settled into bed with the sound of lion roaring softly outside.

A three hour game drive was spotted with memories and good game sightings: giraffe, ostrich, waterbuck, zebra, warthog, eland, vervet monkeys, wildebeest, steenbok, blesbok, impala and kudu. Hatchiko alerted us to a black-backed jackal as it trotted through the winter scrub alongside the road.

Special times with old friends while being observed by curious giraffe brought our day to a close as the sun set over the bush and our beds were calling.

Self Catering: Richmond

Cost: R110 per person per night

Pet Friendly (no extra cost)

Ablutions and kitchen in the old house

No demarcated camp sites. Camping anywhere in the grassed garden adjacent to the old house. Power supplied on demand via extension cable. We are the only people at Stillewaters – how lucky can we get!

The glorious sunrise saw us on our way from Cape Town. Winding through the mountains and passing through the amazing Huguenot tunnel and into the karoo scrubland. An interesting hour was spent browsing through the museum town of Matjiesfontein (named after the reed beds in the valley that the Koi women, indigenous to the area, used to make mats (matjies) for their homes).

A purchase of karoo lamb tjops just outside Beauford West for dinner and a 10 hour ride – including stops – brought us to the small, run down, town of Richmond which lies just passed the ‘Three Sisters’. Stillewaters is 4.5km’s from Richmond and is a working farm battling to cope with the lack of water.

The farm house, built in 1863, has been left by its owners with cutlery, crockery, linen etc for the use of its guests (there is even soap and shampoo in the shower!). In winter you are welcome to light a fire in the lounge or make use of the indoor braai.

The farm is one of the original ‘Three Sisters’ farms and was used by the British to bury their dead during the Boer War. We were fascinated to learn that the young farm manager, Chris, had met the farm owner in Cape Town where he painted yachts for a living. The owner introduced Chris to the farm and has put him through agricultural school to provide him with the skills needed to run this tranquil farm.

Many of the 230 bird species recorded for the area were in evidence during our slow morning breakfast. Packing up our tripper was as easy as it had been to set up camp the day before. No camp fatigue. No uncomfortable ‘making do’. Although the weather had turned fresh during the night we were well insulated and it was a pleasure to throw open the doors in the morning inviting the world inside for morning coffee.

Fonteinplaas Camp Site: Gamkaskloof

Cost: R200.00 per site per night

Pet Friendly (no extra cost)

Ablutions: basic with hot water

Sandy camp sites nested in a tangle of scrub bush reminiscent of Mokolo Camp in Namibia. We are the only people in camp and can luxuriate in the stillness.

With Mountain Passes of South Africa ( https://www.mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za/find-a-pass/western-cape/item/103-gamkaskloof-road-to-die-hel.html ) along as a guide we entered the 37km ride on the road to Die Hel or Gamkaskloof at midday. Taking time to enjoy and appreciate the astounding geology of the Swartberg mountains. The ever changing flora ranging from scrubby grasslands to fields of protea, which still held many late season flowers, kept the route interesting and called for frequent photo opportunity stops. There was a surprising amount of icily cold water tricking under the road here and creating drifts there which tastes like heaven.

The iconic view of the road zigzagging up the mountain ahead drew us forward as we wound through numerous bends with the trailer following faithfully; the kilometer boards marking our slow but steady progress. At the apex of one of the hills that provided extensive views of the folded rock we opened the back of the Tripper and indulged in a cold lunch with freshly made gin and tonics. Our camp chairs, cooler box, plates, glasses etc easy to access and simple to pack away afterward.

Cresting the final hill the view of the Cape Nature entrance to the kloof valley lay below. A torturous 4km of road, filled with hair-raising hairpin bends, lay 333m between – the Elands Pass.

After careful, slow driving (4km’s in 30mins) we breathed a sigh of intense, pressure releasing pleasure and drove into Fonteinplaas. Exploring the camp site we wondered if the ‘available for hire caravans’ had been abandoned by previous visitors who were loathe to drive their vans back up the Elands Pass!

Our stay was magical. A basic egg and bacon breakfast made special by homemade boerewors, bread and jam provided by the young owner who is married to the son of the last remaining ‘kloofer’. Her matter of fact acceptance of the challenges of home schooling, fetching groceries from Outshoorn and living permanently in a very small community amazing.

We visited the museum, walked through a stoney valley to the Koninggat, which opened onto the Gamkaspoort, and were impressed with the care and attention to detail exhibited in the restored houses of the founding residents who had been isolated more by the difficulty of traveling the roads in and out of the kloof, before the gravel road was constructed in 1962, than by choice.

Traveling out of the kloof was slow as we stopped every kilometer up the Elands to allow the car to cool and to watch the progress of the few cars ahead of us as they snaked their way up the side of the mountain. 112km’s total round trip brought us back to the entrance road to the valley and the splendor of the Swartberg pass. The trip was awe inspiring and we count ourselves lucky to have experienced it. Would we do it again? Definitely – but we would stay longer to enjoy more of the hikes the area offers.

9th May 2019

Olienhof Cottages and Caravan Park

Price: R100.00 per person per night

Pet Friendly (no extra charge)

Our third visit to Olienhof. The ablutions are clean and spacious. The camping area adjacent to a working olive farm that provides a vibrant yet peaceful atmosphere. 

After what feels like years of planning our off-road camping trailer has been discussed, designed, hand crafted, towed and slept in!  The ease of planning and preparing our dinner, after a long day on the road, preceded an amazingly comfortable night in our cocoon. It was a surprise to open the door in the morning to feel a cold wash of air across my face when I was so snug. 

Having everything to hand with little effort is a tribute to the careful development that has taken place at Road-Tripper Trailers over the last few years and being able to pack up and move camp with such ease makes the thought of many happy years of camping ahead seem like an exciting treat. https://www.roadtrippertrailers.com/  

It is with full hearts that we move inexorably down the straight road towards South Africa. Our three month stay in Namibia has been a success that met, and exceeded our expectations, on all fronts.

Ngoma Border Post – a scary official who taught us that borders are nothing to be feared if you have nothing to hide. Friendly people in the queues. Basic working class much more pleasant to engage in conversation than self important ‘travel retirees’.

Katima Malilo – fresh fruit and vegetables, bustling streets, air time, no indications of SANDF history. Magnificent river views. Coffee at the Protea. Laid back friendly people ‘hakuna matata’.

B8 – a good quality road lined with dusty villages, goats, cattle and smiling people. Roadside picnic benches under shade trees. Burned veld. Bushmen. Checkpoints into and out of Bwabwata. A cutline through the Caprivi with ‘guests’ traveling in Toyotas topped with tents, diesel cans and spades.

Kongola – internet access! Chats to the family. Dogs, petrol, basic groceries. Hot bread, cold coke. Oh where is the coffee shop?

Mukolo ‘bush’ Camp – flood plane water, tree covered caravan sites. Superb showers with hot, hot water. Sunsets over the riverine vegetation. Boat trip. Hippos. Dust. Leaves. Wood Owls. Swamp brubru. Mourning doves and fruit bats. Timmy, Tiger and Milla. Warm friends. Good food. A place to dream, plan and laugh. The dynamic Cisco, tall Van Wyk and silent Eric.

Bwabwata – elephants! Huge trees. Sand, sand, sand. Buffalo in their hundreds. Flowering knob thorn trees glowing in the early morning light. Letchwe, sitatunga, kudu. Spectacular views over the horseshoe oxbow. Veld fires. Quiet escapes at viewing decks. Fish eagle calls. So few other people you could bask in the solitude. Changing the Cruser’s flat tire.

Mudumu Nature Reserve – camera traps, roan, cheetah, Mopane forests glowing in the setting sun. Sneaking in and out with Hatchiko (‘you can take her as long as she doesn’t bark. Your dogs are not like our dogs’). Hippo Pool with no hippo. Thick sand. Viewing deck over the river. Jacana’s. Ground hornbills. Zebra dust bath in the sunset.

State Forest – Soaring teak trees. Indigenous forest with no invasive species. Thick scrub bush. Questionable camp sparking our imaginations – Anti Poaching? Poachers? Bush meat hunters? Game paths. Roads grown closed. Wood thieves;bleeding trees. Border road with strange holes alongside it. Stories of landmines to make your heart race. Woodcutter camps. Lion spoor in the road.

Conservancy – a dream for the Caprivians; if only they could remain sustainable, honest and with a fair distribution of income. Glowing open woodlands. Giraffe sailing through the grass. Animals and surprising topography around every corner. Proud Foster. A relief to know that the decimation of the wood layer seen along the roads is localized and much of the bushveld remains pristine.

Heavy hearts crossed the border into South Africa. Love and thanks fly back to all who made our trip a dream come true.

Every word has a story, a taste, scent and texture to be savored and remembered.