Tussen-i-Bome

Dinokeng Central

Cost – Private Camp: R350.00 per camp site per night (max 6 people)

Welcome to Tussen-I-Bome Guest Farm

Pet Friendly (No extra cost)

After a hassle free trip of 57 minutes along tar roads, and a very short stretch of gravel, we arrived at Tissen-i-Bome just before 6pm to a warm welcome from the owner Gerhard.

Hidden on top of a low hill which forms part of the Bobbejaans Berge, the only nod to civilisation at the Wild Camp is a basic water supply and a long drop toilet. We arrived just as the sun was setting after negotiating a challenging 2 kilometres along a rough road lined by rocky outcrops that require a high clearance 4×4 vehicle. We proudly thanked our Tripper who had rolled effortlessly along behind the car – not even the eggs were cracked!

We set up quickly and enjoyed a fire. A slightly chilly wind was blowing but it was much warmer than Johannesburg. The evening was made very special by the sound of lion and hyena calling from the nearby Kevin Richardson Wildlife Sanctuary https://www.lionwhisperer.co.za/. Their sound accompanied us to bed and stayed with us periodically through the night.

Situated in the sour veld there is no green on the trees or grass and the wind rustles through the few dry leaves that remain. Amazingly beautiful rocks surround the camp and the bush veld pulls the eye deeper and deeper looking for the many birds calling a welcome to the day.

We were isolated and basked in the silence. A perfect get away that promises walks, a swim in the pool in warmer weather and peace whenever we need to get away.

Riverside Paradise: Cullinan

Cost – Private Camp: R120.00 per person per night

Home

Pet Friendly (R30.00 per night)

Check-in: 14h00. Check-out: 11h00.

An amazing break away just an hour from home. Riverside Paradise offers a friendly welcome and, despite our arrival after dark, staff were on hand to show us our site and help us set up. Of course with our marvellous Tripper I was able to set up on my own in just a few minutes while Clive concentrated on starting the fire.

The fees include a braai on each stand, with a water point; tables and chairs (if needed), as well as all the activities, canoeing and hiking. Near the stands with no electricity, there’s a wooden kitchen with electricity, fridges, microwave and 2-plate gas stove, to use free of charge.

Chicko was able to roam freely with lots of other pups visiting for the weekend but, although we could hear the other visitors we were alone on the group stand and able to revel in the stillness and beauty.

The 5km hike was wonderful if slow. We were very pleased, and surprised, that we were able to complete it in relative comfort after the past two months of compromised health. How great to be alive and well again!

The amazing birding was topped off with repeated and clear sightings of the African Finfoot and half coloured kingfishers.

A definite ‘visit again’ venue.

As a perfect day draws to an end I remember –

The laughter and fun of being loved

Of being a couple in love

Opening presents full of promises

And cards filled with messages that spell out a life well lived.

A hike with a back pack of yummies we carry

Providing a measure of comfort

A beacon to guide you

The strength to continue

Born on the back of a companion who follows and leads

Messages gathered at the foot of a tree

The sign of a cell phone connecting me to

A brother, a sister, a Mother, a child

The day made so special

A precious song sung in the bush fills my heart

Drawn upward by paths through the mountain that beckons

Collecting a fern that may grow

We pushed and we climbed

We were stunned by the view

Till the thunder and rock faces ended our play

The full moon creeps over the mountain

It lights up the valley below

How special and perfect

Our bellies are full;

A warm bed is calling, a light rain is falling; my world is all good

Thabaphaswa Mountain Sactuary

Cost- Private Camp: R295.00 per camping stand per night (pensioners rate)

No cell reception, no WiFi, no electricity

Pet friendly. No extra cost

A cyclone forming over Mozambique made planning for our long weekend at Thabaphaswa a little uncertain but we decided to continue with our time away despite the mixed weather forecast. An easy trip and setting up camp so pleasant with the Tripper.

The afternoon was spent exploring the nearby dams to admire the water collecting after the good rains. On our previous visit they were mostly empty following years of drought.

The cloud cover obscured the moon but our fire danced as we ate burgers for dinner.

The first day was spent driving over 4×4 trails in search of a dam for Hatchiko to swim in. A beer and a muffin next to Tofu’s Dam watched over by barking baboon that clearly objected to being disturbed.

The hot sun and clear skies gave no clue to the torrential storm that was waiting for us that evening. We finished cooking our dinner on the Webber braai while standing angle deep in water. Much laughter spiced our dinner as we ate in the Tripper as warm, snug and dry as could be!

Although we had planned to hike some of the many trails the following day, the rain soaked grass dissuaded us and we took to the roads which circle the farm and criss cross their way up and down the mountains and valleys. Although the distance covered is less than impressive it takes a surprisingly long time to explore.

We ended up climbing to the highest camp, Kanniedood Mountain Hut, using hands and feet to negotiate the steepest parts while ‘Chicko bounded ahead like a mountain goat. Coming down again after admiring the breathtaking views a challenge competed without blood.

A stunningly gentle evening listening to the nightjars calling, sleeping snug and safe and waking up to a gentle rain we sat under the gazebo enjoying our coffee and relishing the time in the bush which fills up your heart and mind.

Thabaphaswa Mountain Sanctuary: Mokopong

Cost- Private Camp: R295.00 per camping stand per night (pensioners rate)

No cell phone or wifi access

No electricity

Pet Friendly (no extra cost)

Lowering clouds followed us northwards as we travelled the highway in the direction of  Polokwane.  Rain was forecast for the weekend but we decided to take a chance and go camping anyway.

We arrived at Thabaphaswa after an easy three hour drive in plenty of time to set up camp – it only takes 20 minutes with the Tripper!  Just love our Tripper…

A warm welcome and access to Craft Beer, firewood and ice, we sat and chatted to the owner, Deon, getting a quick rundown on the roads and trails in and around the farm.  We were escorted to our camp past the cattle kraals and discovered it was a single campsite and we would be alone – how lucky can you get?

A basic but beautifully built fire area, a lot of trees and an empty stream made up the site (they have just started having rain again after 4 years of drought!)

The ‘loo with a view’ and the open shower were uphill from the camp and needed a little planning for early in the morning.

Hiking trails, winding 4×4 roads and exceptional bird life filled our days and a huge full moon sailed through the night sky making it light enough to navigate the unfamiliar area without torches.

The friendly atmosphere, breathtaking surroundings and the hope of returning to full dams and running water will ensure our return soon – perhaps for birthday celebrations?

Hartebeestpoort Holiday Resort: Hartebeestpoort

Cost- Private Camp: R370.00 per camping stand per night

http://www.hartbeespoortoord-resort.co.za/

Pet Friendly (no extra cost)

As the resort was not very full we were able to amble around the camping area to find a position that suited us.  There are tall poles with 8 – 10 electricity points on them that are centralised and indicate camp sites but otherwise there are no markings to show where one camp site stops and another begins.  Numbers scatted around are guides to where to set up and can be interpreted in a number of ways.  Our minds ran riot when we realised how many people are packed into the camp site in peak season.  The area we chose has winter-bare terminalia and comberitum offering scant shade but we were the only people there –  how lucky can we get!

The ablution block was a 2 minute walk away and was somewhat clean and adequate but very old and in need of both maintenance and a loving hand to restore it.

We enjoyed a fire and braai with the gentle sounds of laughter and quiet music from other campers in the background – not at all irritating. Hatchiko settled at the periphery keeping us safe. The music ended early and as the darkness settled to silence we were content to bed down.  The promised full moon only made an appearance after we were fast asleep.

Waking up gently we lazed in bed listening to the sounds of squirrels chattering in the trees, grey hornbill’s whistling, and piet-my-vrou calling a welcome to the day.  All of a sudden the sounds of vervet monkeys cut the peace and Hatchiko was out and on immediate guard!  A long lasting game began where the ‘male in charge’ would swing closer and closer to where Chiko lay until some invisible line was crossed then she would go hurtling into the bush to scatter the monkeys; returning with a huge smile of triumph on her face.  

We ambled around the entertainment area admiring the pools and the slides but decided to spend a lazy day at the camp enjoying the abundant birdlife and gentle breezes 

Our tripper kept us cool in the blazing afternoon sun, the solar panels supplying more power than we needed to keep the freezer iced.  Freezing cold beers an enjoyable luxury. 

Klipdas Boskamp: Parys

Cost- Private Camp: R225.00 per person per night

Pet Friendly (no extra cost)

‘Wild Camping’ sites: No electricity. Basic wash-up facilities, water and ablution supplied. An easy hour and a half from Johannesburg

We managed to book the new Bergkamp – how lucky can we get!

Waking up to the call of the fish eagles and the sound of the river is as good as it gets! A perfect place to recharge our batteries after 6 months of COVID-19 lockdown.

The new Bergkamp is secluded, surrounded by bird life and sunlight dancing through the trees on the silvery threads of spider webs.

Walking along the well kept trails you can spy amazing rock formations, old kraal walls, graves from families that have lived in the area and even Voortrekker graves. Sitting alongside the river and marvelling at the many water birds standing in the cold water is a soothing way to wile away the hours.  A private sunrise spot overlooking the Vaal and an easy to access sunset spot calls at the end of the day.

The ablutions, with a donkey for hot water and an eco-loo, is basic but very well laid out.

Our tripper kept us warm during the cool nights, the kitchen layout such a pleasure to use.

Klipas Boskamp: Parys

9BDD98B4-EB06-416F-8A06-B596785D194D Cost- Private Camp: R200.00 per person per night

Pet Friendly (no extra cost)

‘Wild Camping’ sites: No electricity. Basic wash-up facilities, water and ablution supplied

We booked out the camp – how lucky can we get!

There is no Website but you can search ‘Klipdas Boskamp’ on Facebook. 

Jean-Marie writes “Klipdas is a private camping spot situated about 100m from the Vaal river. It has a shower (hot water from donkey), and a ecoloo.  The road up to the farm is good (1,2km gravel) but the part on the farm itself requires a bit of ground clearance.  

Things to do – hiking, fishing, cycling, bird watching etc.  There is a hiking trail on the farm with nice views.”

Although it rained for the whole long weekend we remained snug and dry in our Tripper. Each evening ended with a beautiful fire at the boma, a chorus of frogs around us and the sound of the river rushing over boulders in the background. 

The camp was a piece of paradise enfolding us in beauty and offering picture perfect views around each corner.  Easy hikes circled the koppie and lead us through forests of indigenous trees and shrubs. The wild olive trees groaning with fruit. 

The bird life was in constant motion around us and the mournful call of the Shelduck ended the day under picturesque skies 

In search of the great grey-green greasy Limpopo River

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A side trip to see the Thohoyandou Sacred Forests and waterfall led us on a meandering road trip. The temperature was over 40^C and the fridge battery needed to be charged making the air conditioned car the perfect place to be. We located the (very badly signposted) road into pine plantations and along the banks of the Holy Forest Lake to the waterfall, especially spectacular for the large ferns growing around the river. 

We enjoyed exploring under the cool trees and moved on to the site of the forest. A beckoning path took us, on foot, past deep sentient glades that exposed cairns of stones at intervals along its course. We added a stone or two of our own, not forgetting a quick spit to ‘provide water in honour of life’ and eventually came to the top of the mountain where we were welcomed by Cedrick, an employee of the forestry department, who has spent over 30 years keeping watch for fires in the surrounding pine forests.
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Cedrick shared cool water with us all, including our pup, and led us up a rickety ladder, through a trapdoor into his lookout. He told us of the surrounding crops, tourist attractions, the history of fires in the area and of the dates carved into his desk. He shyly revealed his talent for carving beautiful ‘pap’ spoons and boasted of his expertise in driving the huge TLB that was used to sort the logs into piles of similar size during logging operations. 

We left refreshed in mind and body enjoying the walk back to the car through surprisingly green areas reminiscent of the rolling fields of Ireland. 

Our proximity to the South African border and the Limpopo River had sparked an interest in the infamous ‘Crooks Corner’ where South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe join and ‘people who had no great wish to look into the eyes of the law’ could hide in ages past. Our Fur-Baby prevented us from entering the Kruger and despite its proximity it was surprisingly difficult to get a view of the Mighty Limpopo.
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We skirted the ‘no man’s land’ between South Africa and the Zimbabwe border, which was demarcated by dilapidated fences, and reluctantly turned around when it was clear that the road less travelled was traversed at our own risk. Enquiries at the Pafuri Gate to the Kruger led us westward towards Mesina and a turn off that offered another chance to go northward. We found the road and despite traveling for over 10 kilometers we could see on the GPS that we were constantly traveling parallel to the river with no view of it at all. 

Eventually we found an entrance to a ‘lodge’ that was on the same side of the road as the river and went in to see if we could drive down to a view point. A language barrier with staff made it difficult to understand if we were welcomed or not. As we were leaving we spied a man carrying a large chair on his shoulders and ran to ask him for assistance. He gave a small smile and with great politeness escorted us to the river bank where comfortable chairs offered a spectacular view of the Limpopo.
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Three hours later with hugs and well wishes we left the private home of Peet and Susan who had coped admirably, and with much charm, with their intrepid trespassers.