Up at first light on Monday morning to pack a huge amount of food, water and equipment onto three bakkies, we left Kongola to collect our bushman trackers about 150km’s away in the little village of Chetto. The bushmen, or Khwe, are brothers. Not the small, wizened people of our imagination but strapping young men proud of their skills. Their father, Alfred, and uncles all served with the SANDF during the Angolan war and the family can speak english well. Alfred, who we had the pleasure to host for dinner one night, was delighted to hear that we were from South Africa and had a long chat to us in fluent Afrikaans.
Around the camp fire we learned that meals at home consist of pap, without salt, three times a day. Meat is a luxury they can look forward to once every two or three months and eggs about once a year. They do try to grow vegetables but the elephant often reap what the bushmen can keep alive in this water poor climate. As hunter gatherers they have been impacted in ways we cannot possibly comprehend by the poachers who have hit this part of Africa very hard necessitating the distribution of many Anti-poaching patrols and forbidding any traversing through the park. Their evident delight in filling their dishes with the evening meal is a pleasure to watch; a pleasure to cook for. They take pride in showing off their cooking skills, using the offerd ingredients to make the evening meal in turn. Work is being done to find ways to present the many opportunities our modern world has to offer to this marginalized community that we will watch with interest in the years to come.
Being even a small cog in this important machine is very rewarding. Living in the veld, camping without facilities, working hard and relaxing in the tree lined camps a wonderful experience. Hatchiko takes it all in her stride. A Paper from the survey done three years ago sheds light on the reason for the information gathering.
Traversing from the Buffalo core area near Divindu to the Bwabwata Core area near Kongola, on both sides of the B8 highway, we traversed some 8000 square kilometers in 7 days. At an average speed of 15km’s we crisscrossed the Strip seeing places very few residents and fewer tourists experience – sometimes in heart-stoppingly thick sand. My dream come true.; I got the Land Cruiser to drive!
Up before first light we shiver into jeans, tackies and warm tops. Gathering around the fire and drinking strong coffee and dunking rusks. Thick slices of bread and jam provide breakfast for the bushmen and the dogs get a slice of bread and butter to provide sustenance for the day ahead. (Thanks to Clive who was up early every day to stoke the fire!). Racing off to our appointed starting grid, armed with water and nibbles to keep us going until 11 or so, we started as soon as the light allowed; driving slowly along the sandy tracks recording all carnivore as well as lion’ preferred prey species spoor. Brunch was served at the camp and chores were completed before a rest, repacking the car and setting out again for another transect or two. Innovative camp meals, quiet conversations, planning, chatting, and bed – not always so early either.
A small dish of warm water in your tent. “Strip off your top, wash your face and body as far down as possible. Bundle up in your pajama top. Strip off your bottom half, wash up as far as possible. Try to clean your feet or just put on a pair of socks to keep your bedding clean. A wet wipe for Possible and bed!”
Fruit Bats crying from the trees at night. Mourning Doves growling softly from the trees by day (google them! Its worth it) Mukolo Camp is now our home. Friendly, relaxed smiles and waves from people who walk miles for water and basic food. The highlight of the day is a boiling hot shower to wash the dust off and clean feet before bed.
Itchy Feet! 